Life of a Pig

Preparing The Feast

April 26, 2006

Its been almost a week since the Celebration of Life of a Pig at Brasa.

Prepping began on Easter Sunday. The pigs had been in my walk-in since Friday and they were now in a stage that we could work with them.

My sous chefs Jake, Chester and I began "breaking down" our pigs. Strangely enough for me, this was to be the most difficult part of the entire process.

As we removed heads, trotters, hocks, loins, tenderloins,  riblets, shoulders, and legs just as I have done literally hundreds of times,  emotional feelings around this process rose up in me, that were unfamiliar. I did KNOW these pigs and that was the difference.

My emotional chef muscles were being challenged. I chose not to attempt to separate myself from my feelings, but to understand them. I believe that my feelings were and are rooted in the huge animal lover that I am. The the chef in me wanted to PREPARE them honorably and respectfully. Even eating them was below that.

I had only a vague idea what the menu would be. I had to see how much of the particular cuts of meat the pigs would yield. My findings were that the meat on these pigs, was incredible. The loins were big enough to create an entire dish. The legs and shoulders were big. The factory farmed pigs I was so used to, even of the same weight, offer less than HALF OF THE MEAT of Whistling Train Farm's pigs. There was absolutely no comparison. My conclusion was that pigs that get to run around develop muscle (meat) in all the right places. Factory farmed pigs get fat in the belly, just like us. Muscle weighs more than fat, just like in us. These pigs were all muscle, which meant all meat.

I fed 130 people 5 courses from 4 pigs plus 3 family style appetizers. My cooks and I prepared EVERY part of these incredible animals in some form and had left over.

As a chef I had an opportunity that ultimately reached into my gut and soul and posed a question for me. How will I approach my work now that I have experienced all of this? What can I offer and what can I teach that hasn't already been taught?

In an age where chefs are reaching to their chemistry books to create food from things that aren't. I am reaching back to the farm where things have been mostly forgotten. I won't be turning back. I believe that pushing the envelope is a good and worthy culinary process. In a world where everyhing has seemingly been done we are hungry for "new under the sun" menu items. Chefs want to create them, diners want to eat them and food reviewers are looking for creative dishes from creative chefs to write about.

Perhaps NEW can be found in the almost forgotten.

I can't imagine that I will be making smoked pork foam. However, on my Life of a Pig menu..Bacon Baklava with Bacon brittle worked out really well. Although not my invention, it certainly showed a creative twist, and flair from my pastry chef Rachel. The best part of that dish for me was that the pigs gave us enough small pork bellies for Rachel to make it.

Less than half of a generation ago, many more of us '"knew our food" and perhaps a new purpose for me, is to teach or at least inspire a NEW way to remember what food is about and WHERE it comes from. When we reach into the uncomfortable areas of food, we can find information about ourselves and what we as eaters, chefs and cooks are about and what we and the animals are capable of.

                  

I say this to my cooks... "we have LOCAL lamb tongue in the freezer...(because we have saved them from our whole lambs) Go crazy, but be respectful, appreciate where they came from and ALWAYS be grateful.

I will post a final message summarizing Life of a Pig in a week or so.

Thanks for Visiting,

Tamara

Celebrate

Life of a Pig

April 20, 2006

by tamara murphy

and whistling train farm

               

Menu

Chicharrones               

( skins )

Everything Pig Pate

( pork trimmings, fat, heart, liver, kidney, tongue )

Smoked Riblets

( ribs )

Traditional Posole, Roasted Chilies, Tomatillos, Tortillas

( pork shoulder,  head, trotters,  hocks )

Grilled Loin, Chorizo and Clams

( loin, chuck, fat, trimmings )

Roast Pig

Whistling Train Farm’s Greens, Greek Potatoes

   ( whole pig )

Heirloom Navel Oranges, Jicima, Watercress, Cracklings

( fatty skin )

Bacon Baklava

Vanilla Ice Cream, Maple Flower Crème Anglaise

Bacon Brittle

( belly )

Slaughter day

April 14
Day of Slaughter,

I was up fairly late the night before. I found it hard to sleep anticipating what the day ahead might bring. I wasn't sure about this part at all. It was new and I felt anxious about this new experience. Truthfully, I can't say what my feelings were, except there was a lump in my throat, and a knot in my stomach.

The fact is, I grew fond of these piglets. They were fun, smart, adorable and real. All along I knew what their pupose was, but can a compassionate person end any creatures life and not feel some pain? Intellectually, I get it. But, fortunately I don't spend all my time there. I knew that I could decide not to go to slaughter and that would be okay.  But that didn't seem right to me. I wanted to know what feelings were going to come up for me and explore the whys.  As a chef, and like most of us, I am removed from this part of the process and I wanted to see it through.

The pigs were herded into the slaughter house. The only thing going on when we arrived was our four pigs. They were waiting for us. The facility was clean, calm and attended by a very courteous staff.

Shelley, Mike and I went into the office for the business part of the day. They said it would be fine if we went into where they were working.  After all, they were our pigs.  We were in the slaughter house aproximately 15 minutes after we arrived, and the pigs were already being put through a machine to clean and remove the bristle. Five guys, four pigs, one inspector, Shelley, Mike and Me. I asked if I could take their pictures and they were fine with that. They did joke about not wanting to be on the 6:00 news. I know they don't have a problem with what they do, but some people do.

The chef part of me was fascinated with the butchery aspect.  I think the better word for what I was fortunate enough to witness is "dressing".  The workers dressed the pigs fast, carefully, respectfully, and  they were experts. One man for each pig. The inspector told me I was unable to photograph her, because of gov't rules but I could photograph her hands as she also expertly inspected the livers, hearts and kidneys. Everything checked out fine. She took me through the entire pig's system and readily answered my questions. The chef in me took over as I asked questions and poked the livers. It's not like I haven't gutted fish before or handled livers, hearts, kidneys and everything else an animal has to offer. But these pigs were different. They were mine.

The pigs went into a chiller for about an hour. They were weighed and the weights were 82.5, 82.5, 77.8, 77.2.

This facility is not the norm for a slaughter house, first of all its very small.  and Shelley and Mike feel fortunate that their pigs can be processed here when they are not able to do it at their farm.

Two of the "dressers" loaded them up in Mike and Shelley's truck.

We were on our way with four pigs in less than two hours, including the chilling time and they looked nothing like what I was used to buying. My pigs were strong, with very developed loins, and strong legs.

We drove the 40 minutes back to the farm. We loaded the pigs into my car and off I went to the restaurant. They are now in my walk-in at Brasa.

The pictures that I took that day I have decided not to post. I thought long and hard why. This part of Life of a Pig was personal. The slaughtering was not for show. The slaughtering of an animal is something to experience, if one chooses to, not observe from a blog.  Although I didn't actually witness the entire process, I certainly feel that my most recent experience is bringing me and hopefully you, to a better understanding and appreciation of the full cycle of the Life of a Pig.
What's left is the preparing the feast and sharing it with you.

Respectfully,
Tamara Murphy

Next Posting:
Preparing the Feast!

Week 12

Hello Everyone,
Only a few days now before slaughter. The date for slaughter is Friday the 14th. We will load the four piglets into a trailer and head off to a slaughter house south of Puallyup where they are USDA approved and have an inspector present. I am clueless from then on what to expect.

Shelly and Mike have a relationship with this salughter house and they are necessary to carry out the slaughter. Mobile slaughter units  exist in other counties with an inspector present , but unfortunately not one here in King County. This needs to change. A mobile unit is more cost effective and for obvious reasons easier on the pigs and the farmers. There is an effort currently driven by Ron Sims and local farmers to make this happen for King County.

Life of a Pig continues to be a very fulfilling and educational journey for me. I have learned more about factory farming than I ever wanted to know. My obsession with pig farming has taken me to fun and educational pig "sights" at the farm AND horrible sites on the internet and even TV. Two postings ago I was sitting at my computer late one night and trying to figure out what to write and also flipping through TV channels and I came across a vegan program that was about pigs and the factory farm. I couldn't believe what I was seeing and as you may imagine, the worst of the worst was being filmed. First of all, the timing was sureal and I spent way too many hours writing about why we shouldn't by pork, then Ideleted the posting in the morning. My goal is not to change our eating habits, but to entice you to explore healthy, humane and sustainable alternatives when we have the opportunity.

After spending many weeks at the farm and observing, playing, scratching and feeding piglets, sows and a boar, hanging out with Shelly, Mike, Cosmo and Della I feel a huge swell of pride and gratitude that I have this opportunity. To know your farmer is to to know your pigs, carrots, potatoes and everything else they grow. It is a rewarding relationship. Life of a Pig connects us to a very primal experience that isn't necessary 24/7. I believe, if it's only every now and again that we actually THINK about what we consume, its a good beginning towards a more connected relationship with our food.

Many years ago I was travelling in Thailand. One afternoon I picked up a young Thai couple in my truck who were hitchhiking. The woman was very pregnant. They were looking for a ride to the hospital as she needed a checkup. I waited for them at the hospital and gave them a ride back home. They would not let me leave after dropping them off before they could thank me by feeding me a bowl of soup. I watched them ladle a huge bowl of broth that included the entrails of one of their home grown pigs. A couple of hogs and a few piglets were running around with some chickens and a monkey. People and animals were together. Not something I suggest for us here in America but it was an experience I will never forget.  As they ate their rice and vegetables, which looked delicious I had no choice but to eat up the pork soup with entrails, that trust me was NOT USDA inspected pork. I was their guest and they honored me by giving me their best soup. It must of been a freshly slaughtered pig and the first item from the pig to use up are the entrails. Can't say I was  hugely excited at the time, but I ate it and there were absolutely NO side affects, if you know what I mean.

The Farmers Markets are the best opportunity we have to support our family farms. They will be starting up this month and will be in full swing by the end of May.

Visit www.seattlefarmersmarkets.org. and view a detailed listing of startup dates, locations and the participating farmers. Make a commitment this year to go more often and get to know your farmers and community better. Everything "under the sun" is there as well as pork, beef, chickens, eggs, even fish. 

Life of a Pig gently nudges you and me to a more thoughtful process of what, where, why and how we consume. The Farmers hold the answers to the what and where, I will continue to explore the whys and hows for my restaurant and my personal life.

I will make a strong attemp to post a little something before our dinner April 20th @ 6pm and let you know how slaughter went. If you still want to make a reservation for Celebrate Life of a Pig , please call 206-728-4220.

Thanks again for visiting!
Tamara

          
Welcome to Week Ten!

Shirley had her piglets! Ten of them arrived just a lttle over a week ago and eight of them survived. It is not unusual that some piglets do not make it. Nature has a way of gently taking away those that are not strong enough to make the long haul.Shirley was bred with another full Berkshire pig away from the farm. Remember, she was the sow that lived somewhere else for a while. These piglets as you can see are pure black with white faces and feet, They are much smaller than the Berkshire/Duroc breed. Berkshires are smaller and they will grow slower. I am looking forward to seeing and tasting the difference.

The Japanese feed these pure bred pigs sweet potatoes after they are weened according to my friend, Taichi Kitamuro, owner and chef of Chiso in Freemont. It made sense to me. Yum!  I am wondering if they should be cooked or raw. I am leaning towards cooked. Pigs have a digestive system very close to ours, so I will follow my instincts (I don't like raw sweet potaoes, so I think I will roast them) I will also rely on Shelly's advice. We have started feeding the piglets for our dinner apples. They are wondering what they are. The sows however, find the apples a real treat. The piglets will soon get with the program I'm sure.

Free range animals taste better because of their diet. That's why we pay more for free range animals, such as chickens, It's not just about their food, its mostly about the room they have to move around to dig for natural food.

As a chef I am so thrilled to have this opportunity to actually feed them product that will change their flavour. Not only do our pigs get to root in the dirt for bugs, and plants, but items such as sweet potatoes, apples, nuts and berries will be apart of their diet, This is a good life for a pig.

The piglets for our upcoming dinner were weened the other day. Violet is uncomfortable because her body is still producing milk. Her body will soon absorb the excess and soon she will feel fine. Although she is okay with the break from her piglets, their is still an adjustment process, not just physically but seperation anxiety is naturally present. Violet is just across the path from her piglets and she checks on them regularly. She is interested in what I am doing in their pen, Her grunting is directed towards me as I touch and coax them towards the grass I am feeding them. 

Shelly points out the dimples in the piglets backs that are significant in the loin growth.The dimple is pronounced and growing. She also tells me the curly tail is telling us they are content and happy. As I patted one of the piglets and gently tugged on her tail, it immediately went straight. I guess the piglet was telling me something.

Shelly's information contstantly reminds me that the reason for these piglets is food.  She is okay with that and so am I. My respect for the PIG continues to grow and I have just a few weeks before slaughter. I know that I am growing attached and slaughter will be difficult for me emotionally.

As I go through this process and continue to learn about the Pigs not only have I gained so much more respect for the animal, but for Shelly and Mike.

Their world with their kids Cosmo and Della, people, pigs and vegetables is kind, gentle and very grounding. I am proud of my pigs and the farmers who raise them. I am grateful that they have allowed me in to get a glimpse into  their world of raising pigs.

I am thrilled to be able to soon say, that my signature dish at Brasa,

Roast Pig with Chorizo and Clams is from Whistling Train Farm, a local and sustainable farm. That for me is my greatest reward.

Again, April 20, 6:30 pm. Come and Celebrate Life of a Pig at Brasa.

Call 206-728-4220 for reservations.

Thanks for Visiting

Tamara

Week Six

Welcome to Week SIx in Life of a Pig

I hear a particular question over and over again. Some of you are wondering how I can let myself get so chummy with the hogs. Well, Violet, Katie, Shirley, Ms. Fig and Rusty will never become bacon. 

On commercial farms, when the hogs reach the end of their reproductive years, are normally taken to market.This practice, of course, is expected and necessary. Otherwise an unimaginable quanity of meat would be wasted.

Shelly and Mike have a different situation, simply because they are not commercial pig farmers. They have a few sows and one boar, who produce top of the line quality pork. At the end of the hogs life, they are given a proper burial.

Life of a Pig supports and promotes the local farm. Many of us buy their sustainable products every chance we get. Without our support, these farms could not survive. Our local farmers are people who simply love their land and want to feed themselves, their children and many of us, chemical free food. Shelly and Mike have worked their 15 acres into sustainable farmland. Their land produces all kinds of greens and vegetables which hopefully will reamin here for them to give to their children and to their childrens children and so forth.

Imagine if these farms were unable to sustain their business.  Their land would be developed for commercial and self interest projects. Once sold, their farmland would never again be a small sustainable farm that provides our communities with an alternative food source. 

Farmers Markets are not just about food , they are about community. When you shop at  your neighborhood Farmers Market you are buying good healthy food, supporting your community and ensuring that our farmers can continue to supply us with delicious, healthy food for years to come.

Food in this country is cheaper than anywhere else in the world. I know its hard to believe when we are at the check stand or reaching into our pockets for cash at our local Farmers Markets. Our small farms do not produce volume, so their costs are higher. Restaurants that use the product of local farms, spend much more on food than many of our corporate restaurants that buy in volume from distributors. I believe the higher cost is worth it. One of my favorite quotes by Alice Waters is “There are politics behind how we spend our money on food.  We have a responsibility to support the people who take care of the earth. It is our responsibility and our honor"

Life of a Pig reminds us to be grateful for what we have and to recognize the value in supporting our local farms and farmers. It is not about change, but creating awareness.

As a chef, I have mindlessly chopped, sliced, baked, roasted, grilled, braised hundreds ...gulp...thousands of pounds of meat, fish, produce without a second thought. Just after weeks of my participation in Life of a Pig I look at my cooler filled with food, differently.

Dividing the earth's productive land by the world's population of just over 6 billion, there are approximately 4.5 acres of land available to meet each person's consumption needs. Already global per capita consumption is at 5.1 acres per person. In the US , per capita consumption demands 23.7 acres of productive space—far beyond one person's fair share. In other words, if everyone (all 6 billion people on the planet) consumed like we do, we'd need four more planets like this one.

When I buy local product, I know what I am getting and it stays fresh so much longer than anything I buy from a distrubutor. Whether it be meat, fish, or produce, it is possible to buy directly from the farmer on many occasions. I know when I buy direct, I get the best product out there. Most importantly, I know that I am making a contribution to the health and wealth of our planet!

Thanks again for visiting!

(For those of you who have just tuned in..Life of a Pig begins with a first posting called Meet and Greet. Keep scrolling down.

Tamara Murphy
tamara@brasa,com
chef/owner
Brasa

Week Four

Katie had her Piglets!

Ten of them! Shelly tells me this is a good manageable number. Otherwise the sow loses track of her litter and may lie down on top of them. The piglets are all healthy! Right now they spend their time huddled together and scrambling around on top of each other under the warming lights because of our currently very low temperatures. They have very little body fat and need to stay warm. Katie is just on the other side, available through a small opening where they can visit anytime they like.

One important difference in our Whistling Train Farm pigs and commercially raised pigs is the amount of room the sow and piglets have. Often in a commercial enviroment they are crated with just enough room for the sow, piglets and feeding trough. The lifestyle of the pig is just as important as what they eat.  Although some large livestock breeders who have organic programs provide outdoor areas for the pigs, some do not. It is not a requirement. Exercise and socializing is an important part of a pigs life. Commercial pigs are known to chew off one anothers tails in tight quarters, most likely due to their boredom and irritability. Exercise and room to romp provide good muscle tone and a relaxed pig.

Meet Shirley.
Shirley belonged to Mike and Shelly awhile back and now she is home again. Shirley is Ms. Figs mother. Shelly and Mike have a sneaking suspicion that she is carrying a litter. Shirley is also a pure bred Berkshire like all the other sows on the farm and is very friendly and personable. Shirley loves to be scratched and leans into me letting me know I am right on target! Shelly is very happy to have her back.

Ms Fig and Rusty.
The rumour is Ms. Fig and Rusty have been seen 'together". It looks as though Brasa will have an ample supply of pigs this spring! Rusty has been earning his keep it seems.

Violet and Piglets.
Violets pigs are growing quickly. They have more than doubled in size. Their intelligence is very clear. Berkshires are the most intelligent of all the breeds. Her rapidly growing litter, were so curious and interested in us!  The piglets are already very toned due to the room they have to run around and have been nibbling at Moms feed but Violet is typically not in the mood to share. The piglets will remain on Violets milk for a few more weeks. So far, Violet is okay with that, but soon will grow impatient and her piglets (pigs) will be feeding on a diet of organic apples, berries and sources of protein. Pigs need a lot of protein to grow muscle, fat and flavor.

'Life of a Pig' Celebration.
April 20
6pm
50.00 per person.(alcohol not included)
Come and enjoy a family style feast honoring this amazing animal. I will prepare the pigs a few different ways as well as various side dishes using local product from various farms in the area. Shelly and Mike will be here to celebrate with us. Bryan will will showcase local wine and beer producers. This feast allows us the opportunity to recognize, appreciate and honor the farmers, the sustainable process in which these animals were raised and the exact reason for which they were raised. I for one am very grateful.
For reservations call 206-728-4220.

Thanks again!

Tamara

Week Two

Welcome to Week Two of Life of a Pig.

My cooks and I headed down to the farm on Thursday. They are very excited about this project and are very much a part of the reason I am doing this.          

Educating our young cooks is key to ensuring that our next culinary generation will embrace sustainability, respect and support the family farm.

Pig History

Pigs are domesticated mammals in the swine family. They are raised in almost every part of the world for food, but they cannot live where it is very dry. Pigs are also called swine and hogs. Pigs have two enlarged canine teeth that grow out of their mouths to make tusks.

There are two species of wild swine, one in Europe and the other in Asia. Pigs were first domesticated in China about 9000 years ago. Later, Europeans domesticated pigs. Then Christopher Columbus, Hernando de Soto, and other Spanish explorers brought them to the western hemisphere. Modern wild razorbacks, in the American South, descend from the pigs these explorers found to farm.

If you feel a pig's nose which I did for you and for me, the top is very tough, but the underneath is very soft. Its nose works like a shovel to help it root in the dirt. I am suspecting that this is a very necessary tool used in finding truffles. Its nose is very sensitive and has an acute sense of smell also another reason why they can 'root out' this culinary delicacy. Their hearing is uncanny and you cannot sneak up on them. These two senses keep them safe in the wild as their tiny eyes do not do much for them. They are very intelligent and outsmart our loyal friend the dog.

Pigs are omnivores, which means they eat plants and animals both.

A mother pig carries her babies for a little less than 4 months. Commercially  raised pigs are a profitable livestock because they are ready to slaughter at six months.

I take my pigs at about ten to twelve weeks. Shelly and Mike ween them at about six weeks for me. They are not rushed and benefit from the nutrients of the sows milk. Then we will decide what to finish them on. These piglets will be finished on a diet of organic apples, berries and nuts.

Commercially raised pigs are typically weened at three weeks and the piglets are fed corn, soybeans, other beans and aniamal products for the next 5 or so months. The sows are ready for breeding again right after their piglets are weened.

In Meet and Greet I wrote that Violet( the sow) is a Berkshire and Rusty (the boar) is a Duroc.
   
The modern Berkshire breed was developed in Britain as a specialist pork pig in the middle of the nineteenth century. The basic unimproved animals from which it derived were short-legged and rather fat pigs (also known as Berkshires) which had evolved by crossing British pigs with Chinese stock introduced into Britain in the 1700s.
      
During the nineteenth century the breed was refined to an early-maturing black pig, often with white on its short legs and dished face. It was extremely popular, and a Breed Society was formed in 1885.

This rare breed produces a dark colored and marbled meat.

The Duroc grows the fastest of all the breeds. Rusty is four years old and weighs aproximately 1000 pounds. That should give you a good idea about how fast they grow.  Rusty as you can see from his photograph is pure muscle. Shelly and Mike conclude that breeding the two creates a fast growing, healthy and very tasting pork. I agree.

Log in next week and learn more. Stay tuned for the big "Celebration of a Pig's Life." @ Brasa

Thanks for visiting,
Tamara

Meet & Greet

Before there was PORK there was PIG.

For those who choose to journey along with me I hope this time together will bring us to a fuller appreciation and better understanding of our food. In particular pork. We will explore Where, How and Why.

This eight week journey will take you from January 18th, one and a half days after the birth of 5 piglets, to a celebration @ Brasa that honors the Farm, the Farmer and the Pig.

The pigs will weigh approximately 100 lbs and will be about 12-13 weeks at slaughter. How fortunate are we to be able to enjoy such a feast!!

We are a country comfortable with our food neatly packaged in SUPER MARKET cellophane and we would be perfectly fine leaving it at that. Well, I believe that if we take a deeper look into where our food comes from, meaning how it lives and how it comes to our table, we will be more appreciative and most importantly become more connected. To what? That is for you to decide.

I am a chef who cooks meat every day. This project is as much for me as it is for you. I look forward to handling the live animal just as the Farmers do on a daily basis. I am sure that you and I will experience some underdeveloped emotions when it comes to the slaughter.

During these eight weeks we will meet the Farmers, the Pigs and get to know them better. We will explore the meaning of sustainability. We will learn the differences between a Berkshire pig and a Duroc. We will witness the exact reason why the piglets were born and raised. Perhaps we will become attached…and what on earth will we (I) do with that? We may have to ask our farmers. This is their life everyday.

Enjoy the journey!
Tamara Murphy
Owner/Chef
Brasa
www.brasa.com